Article by Mia Zarrella
Makeup by Cassia Enright, Peri Lapidus, Madeline Lies, Lauren Balfour, Keyao Wei, and Courtney Kaner
Photos by Andri Raine
Models: Sienna Haines, Kayla Jung, and Jane Reagan
Styling by Blythe Bruwer and Andrea Fernandez
Jeremy Scott:
Jeremy Scott’s 2016 Spring New York Fashion Week show inspired this Sixties look. With styling and beauty reminiscent of chic Go Go Girls, Scott’s line speaks: the bigger the hair, the bigger the flare. But to make Scott’s look more practical for everyday life, the em Mag stylists modernized the Brigitte Bardot bouffant hairdo and fashioned a semi-updo hairstyle. Sixties model and beauty muse Twiggy is the era’s poster girl for style, and her fashion footprint is evident in the models’ exaggerated eyelashes. Like the NYFW models, the em Mag model is adorned with Twiggy-esque lashes.
“Instead of being a nod to Twiggy, it’s more of a wink because it’s slightly more wearable depending on who you are,” said Cassia Enright, em Mag’s Beauty Director. “It’s still focusing on the eyeshadow and liner, but Twiggy exaggerated her bottom wings more. This is more eyeliner than trying to be eyelash extensions.”
Scott created his animated Sixties models through not simply styling, but the matching and contrasting of colors. To successfully depict Scott’s aesthetic, the beauty team embraced his color palette and flare. The vibrant lip color and dramatic doe eyes were key to a successful recreation. To evoke the same grooviness of Scott’s Spring line, the model’s vibrant hair was matched with an icy lilac lip, creating a vivid facade. "It actually wasn't a lipstick," said Courtney Kaner, who helped create the look, "I used a clear gloss and layered pigmented lilac eyeshadow on top. I used two shades: a lighter and darker shade." With the colorful, voluminous hair, the statement lip color, and the amplified eye makeup, this look tells a story about its model.
Thom Browne:
It’s not a surprise that a fashion show as eccentric and well-planned as Thom Browne’s would rouse awe and creativity in other artists. Browne embraced Japanese culture in his Spring 2016 line with a Geisha-meets schoolgirl-meets-warrior look. Japanese fashion spread to the West in the late 19th century and garments and elements of the culture now appear in our everyday lives and, notably, in Browne’s fashion show. Kimonos, flat straw hats, knee-high socks, and koi fish-embellished schoolgirl uniforms are just several elements Browne included in his Japanese schoolhouse-themed fashion show. However, a Geisha-look is incomplete without makeup.
Intimidating eyebrow shaping and coloring, powdered white faces, and the traditional Geisha lip were adorned on his models. In recreating this look, em Mag makeup artist Lauren Balfour used MAC Studio Fluid Gel Liner to darken and shape the model’s eyebrows. The same gel liner was then refashioned as a lipstick; coloring only each lip’s center. “Because the makeup was more directly from the runway, we wanted to drawback with the hair to make it something that could be replicated for the everyday purpose,” said Beauty Director Cassia Enright. Em stylist Peri Lapidus opted for an intricate braid, as opposed to the streamlined, upright braid that Browne’s models sported. Lapidus said, “I decided on the dinosaur braid because the shape of it draws attention to the face and the neck since it is so pulled back.”
DVF:
Diane von Furstenberg’s Spring 2016 line revitalized blue eyeshadow. DVF’s models were adorned in Seventies-style fashion, hair, and makeup. Enright said, “It’s a whole other side of the Seventies that [DVF] is trying to bring back,” as opposed to the natural, bare-faced hippie-look that is usually associated with the Seventies. Styled in florals, metallics, and pink, blue and neutral garbs, the models were glamorous head-to-toe, flaunting locks of full curls. Yet, the look would be incomplete without the blue and aqua eyeshadow that was iconic to this Spring 2016 line.
To create this look, em Mag beautician, Madeline Lies, used the Urban Decay Vice Palette for its frost finish and sparkle. “Any sort of eyeshadow with that sort of pigmentation paired with finish will work,” said Beauty Director Cassia Enright. The eyeshadow was applied not only on the eyelids, but on the bottom lids as well, highlight and shaping the eye. The look was topped off with shimmery, glowing cheeks. Fun, youthful, and so retro.